On the frantic and dangerous highways that tie Punjab and Haryana together, honking horns and tires shrieking under the strain of tight turns command attention. But on the dirt roads that lead to villages, pumps and flowing water form much of this region’s soundtrack. Yet, other than the splash and rush of moving water, there is there is little about the underlying confrontation between India’s rising demand for energy, its surplus food production, and uncertain water supply that soothes.

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