Posters of missing Hindu pilgrims are grim ornaments on the walls of buildings that still stand in Sonprayag, downriver on the Mandkini River from the Kedarnath temple. The Uttarakhand government counts almost 600 bodies recovered after the flood and more than 5,000 missing. Residents of the region and a researcher at the Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology assert that 30,000 people perished in the June flood. Photo: Dhruv Malhotra